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Nusa Island Retreat, Papua New Guinea

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Nusa Island Retreat

A sheltered white sandy point with safe swimming and views back across the aqua blues of Kavieng Harbour.

Nusa Island Retreat is situated on a sheltered white sandy point which offers safe swimming and encompassing views back across the aqua blues of Kavieng Harbour. It exudes a relaxed, easy-going feel from the moment you set foot on the beach and bury your toes in the sand.

Accommodation

The Retreat is constructed using a mix of PNG hardwoods and local New Ireland (Niu Ailan) ‘bush material’ to create traditionally styled bungalows with an island vernacular, designed to blend in with the natural environment. Accommodation is in simple yet high-quality free-standing bungalows, either elevated along the beachfront or perched over water. The rooms boast comfortable furnishings and large verandahs, so there’s ample space to kick back and indulge in the views.

Being a relatively small facility of 11 rooms ensures limited numbers and affords a private, relaxed holiday environment with personalised service and attention to guests. Whilst all rooms are of similar construction and standard, there are two grades of accommodation:

  • Standard Room — access to shared central bathrooms.
  • Premium Room — private bathroom facilities.

Bar & dining

The Retreat is serviced by a centrally located, large open-plan beachfront restaurant (hauswin style), with a fully licensed and well-stocked bar. For those wanting a little more separation, there’s an upper-level loft and library for relaxing, reading, board games and AV.

The beachfront restaurant and bar is the focal point of the Retreat and is used to exhibit a range of traditional and contemporary PNG art. The overall tone is simple and informal, with an emphasis on the relaxed ‘no shoes required’ feel.

Breakfast and lunch dishes offer a variety of options that range in price depending on the specific dish. The evening three-course buffet boasts a selection of innovative and upbeat dishes, featuring an abundance of fresh local seafood and healthy, organically farmed produce.

Day guests are welcome. Please note, however, that if you are proposing to dine on any given evening the team cater to numbers, so booking before 2pm is essential.

Dietary requirements can be catered to on request — but advance notification is appreciated, as the team are in a remote location and specialist foods are limited.

Surfing

Kavieng is located just a couple of degrees south of the equator. During the northern hemisphere monsoon, the north coast and the string of islands leading to the west enjoy uninterrupted North Pacific ocean swells. This makes for a generally consistent surf season for the region, running from November through to April each year.

The waves are typically 2–4ft over reef, at varying levels of difficulty. Most of the reefs will handle larger swells of up to 6–8ft, with lefts and rights, some challenging and others more forgiving. It’s a pretty reasonable selection of waves in close proximity, all located within the Kavieng Surf Management Area.

Fishing

Kavieng has rewarded many a sport fisherman’s expectations. The area boasts a great range of fishing, from estuarine mangrove systems to reefs and blue water fishing.

Pelagics have proved to be the most popular pursuit, from the razor gang and GTs through to tuna and billfish. Although traditionally the domain of trolling, casting poppers and jigging has grown in popularity with good reason. Casting light to medium gear in the estuaries can also be rewarding, with jacks, trevally and cod.

Diving & snorkelling

The area is renowned for its diving diversity and has rapidly become highly regarded amongst the diving community. From encounters with big pelagics to drifting along plunging coral-encrusted walls, exploring WWII wrecks or muck diving, you can do it all. Those suitably experienced also have the option to dive or snorkel the freshwater sinkholes and caves which are located on the mainland.

Other activities

  • Swimming — anywhere around the Retreat is suitable for swimming, with the most popular spot being the beach area just off the restaurant. It enjoys calm water with overhanging shade trees.
  • Kayaking — the Retreat has a range of single and double ocean kayaks. From short localised day trips to extended overnight paddles, the choice is yours. For those suitably experienced and looking for a real adventure, the Tigak 5-day trip is an awesome way to discover the best of the islands.
  • Land & nature lovers — both Nusa Lik and Nusa Lavu (or Big Nusa, the neighbouring island) offer fantastic guided or self-guided walking trails. Nusa Lavu has rock pools, a blowhole and several WWII relics that can be explored within an easy 1–2 hour stroll. Nusa Lik is home to the Artisan Trail, where guests and visitors are welcome to visit the villages, interact with the local people and view the local art, jewellery and handicrafts created on the island.
  • Ocean dwellers — if the above options haven’t exhausted you, how about trying your hand at traditional-style canoeing, or calm-water stand-up paddleboarding (SUP)?

The New Ireland mainland

  • Kavieng Market — with an abundance of locally grown produce and cultural exchange, the markets are just across the bay from Nusa Island. Fridays and Saturdays are usually the busiest days, but a visit on any day makes for an interesting and interactive experience.
  • Cycling — for the active and energetic, a great way to absorb the coastal scenery and indulge in the local village culture. Short town and local-area trips are easily arranged.
  • Vehicle tours — the Boluminski Highway is a well-maintained bitumen coastal road that makes for comfortable travelling and sightseeing. Check out the giant eels or swim in crystal clear rivers. Day tours and overnight guest house stays can be arranged.

Artefacts & carvings

The Retreat showcases one of the most extensive collections of Malagan art, as well as a good variety of artworks from other areas of PNG. Malagan culture is the unique history and tradition of the northern New Ireland region. Mysterious and intriguing, Malagan carvings are highly sought after by museums and art buyers from all over the world, and select items are for sale.

Nusa Lik Island is well known for local, handcrafted shell jewellery, and visitors are welcome to wander through the village and markets and view production first hand. The traditional bags known as ‘bilum’ come in various forms and are woven using different materials; the biggest variety can be found at either the waterfront or corner markets on the main island.

Around Nusa

Bungalows, fresh seafood, surf and sunset paddles at Nusa Island Retreat.

A thatched bungalow raised on stilts at the water’s edge at Nusa Island Retreat, with the sun low behind it
A plate of grilled prawn skewers on a banana leaf
A surfer in the water beside a curling turquoise wave
The bow of a kayak on calm water at sunset
Nusa Island Retreat, Papua New Guinea

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