In all the places we've been in the world and all the experiences we've had, climbing Mount Rendova to the B24 plane crash site of Michael's Uncle Brent in WW II, is probably the most unbelievably, adventurous if not most treacherous thing we've ever done! I don't think either of us can quite believe we actually did it!
Took a one hour boat ride from Titiru EcoLodge (owned by Kilo and Esther) to the base of the mount where we were to start our hike There are no motor vehicles on Rendova. Everything is on footpaths thru the jungle or by boat. Kilo has an 18 ft old fiberglass outboard motor boat painted red (they call the Red Devil) that most people would probably have second thoughts about getting into. We tried not to notice the cracks that squirted water as we hit the waves.
We'd planned to leave by 8 but it was raining so we delayed a half hour. It didn't stop so we proceeded. Got to the base where we were greeted by little children running out to the banks...like something you see in National Geographic. It was still raining so we were told to rest until the rain stopped. We got to talk with the guides, one of whose grandfather had helped to retrieve the bodies from the plane. We waited until 10 for the rain to abate but decided we'd start because we needed to insure we'd be back before dark.
Thru the jungle we went. Kilo told us "I will take care of Michael and Esther will take care of Susan." He and Michael had been communicating for a year about this journey to the crash site and when we;d arrived he said adamantly "I WILL get you there!l" He knew how important this was to Michael.
Unless you were there it's hard to explain the nature of the terrain. Roots, trunks, rocks and vines every step of the way. After walking about a quarter mile we reached a small stream that had a 4" plank across it. We tightroped walked across it with a guide holding our hands on either side. Next we came to another small stream with no plank so we just waded thru. About a quarter mile further we came what to me looked like a mighty rushing river! I was sure this was it! Kilo and the guides assessed the situation, took it all in stride, and slowly we inched our way into the river with guides on each side holding firmly onto our arms. Is this really happening?!
On we continued thru the bush. It continued to pour as we navigated the slippery leaves and muck.
Early in the journey the guide cut us heavy walking sticks with his machete. Michael kept his hand on Kilo's shoulder and walking stick in the other hand. Esther and I stuck together and held on to each other when necessary.
We finally reached an old logging road that was of red clay and looked to be easier going. It continued to pour rain. Kilo said that actually this was probably better than the sun as it was overcast and there was some breeze otherwise we would have baked in the heat..
There were small rivers coming down the logging road with the rain, that turned into small gorges and up and down we went really having no sense of how far we'd come or how much longer it would be to get there. At several times I wondered whether we would be able to go on. We stopped for lunch sitting on rocks and logs to eat the bread and fresh fruits they'd brought along, and of course lots of water!
Eventually the guide said only about 2 more kilometers. The end was in sight.!
The end meant climbing an almost vertical hill of mud and vines to where the crash was. With the help of the guide and Esther I was able to climb it. They cut down Tarzan vines that they tied together from tree to tree to help Michael pull himself up! So we are now Tarzan and Jane! It took us five hours total to get there.
A very powerful moment when we reached the top and there was the crash site. Huge sections of it strewn across the mountain. We were able to take some pictures but it was treacherous to try and navigate around it. We spent some time there and Michael got to say goodbye hopefully having some closure to the death of his uncle who died before he was born.
Then the descent down! I asked Kilo if a helicopter would be coming to get us! It only took us about 3 1/2 hrs to get down. Esther and I mostly were always ahead of Michael and Kilo. She said "you are a very strong woman!"
As I would look up the mountain to see Michael coming down with his walking stick and his hand on Kilo's shoulder I thought of Moses coming down the mountain.
This surely will be an experience etched in our memories. Michael said later he felt a huge load lifted off his shoulders
There are so many other wonderful things we did at Titiru but I will save that for another time.
- Susan and Michael Clemmer, 2020 (Traveled to Titiru Eco Lodge, Solomon Islands)
